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    You'll want to go down just far enough so that you can fit the screw cap over it and have just enough room for the wing nut to tighten over the cap. Start another nylon locking nut on the opposite end of the rod. This nut will need to go down a bit farther, so that the flat cap will fit over it, and so that there's enough rod left to thread a second locking nut and half of the coupling nut

  • 1. Below are the parts and tools that I used to make this ball mill. However, keep in mind that these are more guidelines than anything, and I enco2. First, cut your PVC pipe to your desired length with the hacksaw. I cut mine to 6 inches. Then cut the threaded rod with the hacksaw based on th3. Using a drill and drill bit the same diameter of the threaded rod, drill holes through the centers of the PVC caps.4. Wrap the small rag around the threaded rod, and clamp the locking pliers around it. This serves to hold the rod still while you the locking5. The shank end of the mill will have the shank used to rotate the mill. Note: I changed my design after the initial build and I neglected to reta6. Now you'll need to make the shank that allows a drill or something with a chuck to hold the mill and rotate it. First, install the hex bolt into7. Note: If you decide to use PVC cement, now is the time to get that out. Slide your PVC pipe into the cap on the shank end. If you choose to use8. For lack of a better term, I'm calling this end the mouth. It's the end you open to put in and empty out your powder (or whatever you choose to9. Now you get to put your new ball mill to use. Try to find some lead balls, since they are heavy and won't spark. I was unable to get lead balls10. Going forward, I would make a few improvements to my design to make it easier to use and more practical. Use a wider and shorter pipe. Use PVC
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